We've wanted to do this for nearly a decade, and finally, finally we made reservations for a campsite. Every fall the elk at Cataloochee in the Great Smoky Mountain National Park put on a show, producing an eerie bugling noise that is reminiscent of the dinosaurs in Jurassic Park. Watching these huge, majestic animals was beautiful, as was being out in the valley at 7:45 a.m., autumn just coloring the leaves and fog creeping in and out. More on this adventure later. For now, I'm just reveling in—and recuperating from— this beautiful weekend.